A Natural Paradise: Exploring the Allure of France's Southern Blue Lagoon
The allure of the Mediterranean coast is undeniable, but there's a hidden gem in the south of France that's been drawing artists and nature enthusiasts alike: the Thau lagoon. When I spoke with Nordine Nid Hsain, the owner of my favorite Parisian bistro, he shared his reasons for leaving the bustling capital for the artistic haven of Sète. It wasn't just the town itself that captivated him, but the natural paradise of the Thau lagoon.
Hsain's passion for cycling played a significant role in his decision. He described the lagoon's surrounding bike paths as a daily adventure, offering a chance to explore beaches, wetlands, and even enjoy a plate of freshly harvested oysters at the water's edge. The region's vineyards and the opportunity to taste wine straight from the cellar added to the allure.
Intrigued by his words, I embarked on a journey to Sète, eager to uncover this hidden corner of the Mediterranean. Despite having no plans to relocate, I purchased a train ticket and arrived in Sète three and a half hours later.
Thau lagoon, officially an étang (a lake), is actually a vast lagoon separated from the Mediterranean by the Lido, a narrow 9-mile-long beach. I chose to stay on the lagoon side, in the tranquil port of Mèze, where the Hôtel du Port offered an affordable and comfortable stay. The hotel's no-frills room had a balcony overlooking a small harbor filled with fishing smacks and pleasure boats.
One of the surprises in Mèze was the presence of two secluded beaches nestled in the town center. La Plagette, just a two-minute walk from the hotel, is situated beneath the medieval Chapelle des Pénitents, which takes on a golden hue in the morning sun. Across the harbor, La Pinède is a pine-covered stretch of sand, part of the La Conque wetlands reserve, and is accessible via walking and cycling routes that provide opportunities to spot flamingos.
The surrounding countryside is predominantly covered in vineyards, with the lagoon's waters glistening in the background. The region's most renowned wine is Picpoul de Pinet, a crisp white that has gained popularity in the UK. Pinet, a quaint hamlet, is home to numerous wineries, including the historic Domaine Gaujal. Here, the fifth-generation owners, Audrey and Laurent Gaujal, warmly welcome visitors, offering an extensive wine-tasting experience, including an organic Picpoul aged in ceramic amphora, followed by a guided tour of the cellar.
My exploration continued to the ancient Roman port of Marseillan, located at the lagoon's tip. The cobbled alleys in this area remain untouched by modernity, preserving the natural beauty of the lagoon. Nearby, the grand stone warehouse of Noilly Prat, a renowned vermouth producer since 1813, stands as a testament to the region's rich history.
The recently refurbished warehouse features an elegant tasting room in the cellar and a bar frequented by locals for after-work cocktails. An expansive courtyard is filled with hundreds of wooden barrels, allowing the secret recipe of botanicals to age. The bustling quay outside offers reasonably priced seafood restaurants, such as Brasserie Galinette, specializing in sea bream and cuttlefish, providing the perfect alfresco dining experience as the sun sets over the lagoon.
The next day, I ventured to Bouzigues, a fishing village renowned for its oysters. The oyster fields in Thau are a unique feature, resembling an Escher-like maze of hundreds of 'tables' opposite the shore, where thousands of oysters thrive. The ostréiculteurs, or oyster farmers, operate from humble huts on the water's edge, zipping between their wooden cabins and waterside eateries.
At Le Cercle des Huîtres, Irene Salas Fernandez served some of the finest oysters I've ever tasted. She prepared them in various mouth-watering ways: freshly shucked, as a tangy ceviche, deep-fried tempura style, or baked with delicious sauces like bourbon and smoked paprika. Fernandez and her partner, Sebastian, who moved from Barcelona, have been farming oysters for only three years. Sebastian shared a concerning revelation: 'We only cultivate oysters today since the farming of mussels, which Bouzigues was also famous for, has almost disappeared due to global warming. The lagoon's water is becoming too hot in summer for these delicate molluscs to survive.'
I resisted the temptation to swim in the azure waters off Bouzigues' Plage de la Pyramide beach and headed inland to Valmagne Abbey. This magnificent 11th-century monastery, deconsecrated during the French Revolution, boasts a gothic church transformed into a wine cellar. The current owners continue to run a vineyard, operate an organic farm-to-table restaurant, and store their vast wine barrels within the church itself.
Before returning to Sète station, I drove along the Lido's sand dunes, which are almost deserted outside the peak season. Parisian photographer Pierre-Emmanuel Rastoin shared his experience, saying, 'This is the perfect place to escape, as long as you avoid the summer months.' Despite the crowds during peak season, the beach always offers quiet spots, making it an ideal destination for those seeking tranquility.
The trip was made possible by the Archipel de Thau tourism office. For accommodations, Hôtel du Port in Mèze offers doubles from €65 B&B.
